Stage 17:  Pátzcuaro, Michoacan – Taxco, Guerrero
May 30 – June 1, 2013
6 hours, Cuota MX$1001.00

After more than six hours on the road, tight-cheeking it because of my weekly fight with Montezuma, I arrived in Taxco, another delightful Pueblo Mágico. I actually had an idea of where I wanted to stay and thought I could drive directly to the front door. Approaching said door, I realized the only way to get there was the wrong way down a one-way street. It was only a matter of meters so I figured I would be fine. I figured wrong. There was a policia waiting for me. He stopped and asked me just what I thought I was doing. As usual, I didn’t know the answer, in English or in Spanish. He kindly and patiently explained to me that I had to return to the main road at the base of the town and park in the parking garage. While cars are technically allowed on the roads of Taxco, the reality is that there is no way in hell that I could negotiate the streets in my Honda Odyssey, in fact, pretty much the only vehicles able to toodle through Taxco are VW Bugs. And all the taxis are VW Bugs.

I parked in the subterranean lot, gathered up Luna and our essential bags, and went in search of a room, the first hotel didn’t pan out. There was a small tourist kiosk in one of the plazas so I stopped in and asked about lodging. A very kind policia took pity on us, called a friend, then led us to a very cool hotel that allowed dogs. He even carried my bags up the hill and up the three flights of stairs to my room! My sanctuary for the next few days had two rooms, two beds, a big tv, a refrigerator, and an amazing view. All things for which I was very happy as I felt like crap the entire time I was there. Did I mention that I got a case of bad-butt once every week for my first two months in Mexico?

Around Town

But Montezuma cannot keep this Moon-Child down. With my faithful Luna by my side, we wandered just about every inch of Taxco, from the bottom to the top. Taxco reminded me of a very steep Venice, with narrow cobblestone streets and stairs rather than water-filled canals. We did get a great work out. It is also filled with beautiful churches and other religious points of interest.

Religious Taxco

Taxco is one of the prime silver towns of Mexico, sitting at nearly 6,000-feet elevation. Our morning walks were quiet and delightful, but every afternoon the town filled with local tourists and shop keepers looking for silver. There are rows upon rows of shops, mostly wholesale, on the lowest level of the city. And most of it is junk.

Funny thing, the Guerrero and Oaxaca coastline is so far down Mexico that when driving “down” the coast, one is actually driving east with the mighty Pacific to your south.

Mexico has a very different relationship to food. In general, I love the tables piled high with glorious and delicious fresh fruits and vegetables, the pick-up loads of flesh always turn my Montezuma sensitive system.

I arrived in Taxco shortly after my mom’s birthday and bought this beautiful necklace from the artesan for her. Of course, I had to buy one for myself as well, and we still wear them with honor.

While these videos scare the bejesus out of me, they do give you a very good idea of Taxco Town. Just watching these videos gives me a case of Montezuma’s Revenge!